Shots from My Walk

Spring

And the rain rain rain came down down down...

To me, spring is usually just a more mild form of summer, no rain and slightly lower temperatures. But, this is not what spring is to the rest of the world- rather is a changeable thing, sunny one moment and rainy the next. As glorious as Berlin has been for the last two weeks- sunny and warm- we are now in a grey rainy period. I understand the logic and necessity of a spring jacket for the first time in my life! As much as I understand the rain is needed- I do wish it wouldn't.

It hadn't rained for a few weeks, and this weekend when I was riding the S-Bahn out into Pankow for a friend's BBQ, the drying landscape gave me the strongest feeling of homesickness. For the dry summer landscape and "golden" hills as you drive out in the country. For the dry heat warming your skin and baking sidewalks you jump across barefoot to get the mail. If the rain hadn't come, I could see Berlin's landscape turning into the scratchy hard pan, jittering and dusty in a hot dry summer gust. But the rain has come, and I think Berlin is going to stay green, I guess that is what most people tend to go for. And as lush and green as it is, I still can't help but find spring and summer rain a bit disconcerting.

So I carry my umbrella and sunglasses around with me at all times, and hope the sun'll come out to play. I promise to be nice.

1. Mai 2009

In the day preceding May 1st and on the day itself- Berlin became a different world, or rather parts of Berlin did. I live in Friedrichshain, in the eastern part of the city- together with the slightly southwest neighbor Kreuzberg, we make the super Bizirk of Freidrichshain-Kreuzberg. Kreuzberg was in the former West Berlin and has long been home to a large immigrant population, artists, students, and other bohemians. Kreuzberg also has a long history of demonstrations, protests, and violence on May 1st, and this May 1st was no different. Indeed, they are saying that due to the uncertain economic climate, the increase in joblessness in Germany, and the general economic crisis, this year was far more violent that in recent years. Over 250 demonstrators were arrested May 1st in Kreuzberg and over 250 police officers were injured. I had been told that the violence usually picked up around nightfall, but I was surprised to learn that it did not wait until cover of dark to begin, but rather began around 7.30pm. I was well out of Kreuzberg by then, but you could hear the sirens rushing to the area all over town. More about all that in a bit, but first a bit of background to give you a sense of Berlin leading up to the the May 1st National Holiday.

The preparations for violence and rioting began the day before. Walking around Kreuzberg the day before, one couldn't help but notice that all the banks and ATMs were boarded up- as though a hurricane were coming. I walked through Boxhagener Platz to get to Kreuzberg, where Walpurgis Nacht celebrations were to happen, hundreds of people were already gathered and police had set up a barricade. Bags were searched heading into the area and about 25-30 police wagons surrounded the square- ready for the evening hours. Indeed, before May 1st even came- Boxhagener Platz saw around 50 people arrested and another 50 police officers wounded- no numbers of wounded protesters seems ever to be given. Walking through Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg on April 30th, there seemed to be something in the air, a sense of excitement and trepidation. It felt like we were on a rollarcoaster- looking over the edge of the first climb, waiting for the plunge.

Now to the day itself, May 1st took me to Kreuzberg with a few friends, during the daylight hours, it was home to a huge street fair- Myfest (a play on the German word for May- Mai's pronunciation).The streets were full of people listening to live music acts set up around Kreuzberg, dancing, and people lounging in the sun. On every street, Turkish vendors were selling grilled items and everyone was drinking beer or mixed drinks sold for a few euros on the streets. There was a concentrated effort to prevent people's access to glass bottles- but there is no open container law in Germany- and it is harder to control access to alcohol than once would think. We wandered through Kreuzberg, drinking, eating street food, and taking in the great weather (the mid 70s). There really was a wonderful vibe of peace and joy throughout the area.

However, despite the chill vibe settling over the sun and shadow covered streets, the possibility of conflict which the later hours promised was not forgotten. Different demonstrations were going on all over the area and police wagons were parked all over, ready and waiting. According to a local newspaper- the police force on May 1st was around 5800 strong, 1700 of which were members of the Berin Police, the remainder being on loan from other areas of Germany. Indeed, as Kreuzberg enjoyed the Myfest, over in Köpenick (south-east of me), there was a demonstration against the NPD- National Partei Deutschland, an extreme right wing neo-Nazi organization- and their desire to open a new office there. Around 3000 protesters were there and managed to disrupt service to the S-Bahn station for about an hour. The Berlin Morgenpost has a nice series of photos from the demo here.

Around 5pm or so, we headed out of Kreuzberg, across the Spree, in Mitte close to Friedrichshain and to 25, a beach bar just opened for the spring and summer in Berlin. It was on the Spree, shinning in the afternoon sunlight- trees hung their branches low over a series of decks, and the chill vibe returned. As we enjoyed the afternoon-evening sun, we heard sirens in the distance and watched the sun sink lower into the horizon. As I enjoyed the sun, friends, and the type of relaxation I'd only ever felt in the summer before- Kreuzberg was erupting with violence.

The 6pm demonstration at Kottbusser Tor, Kapitalismus ist Krieg und Krise- Capitalism is war and crisis, was foreseen to be the forbringer of violence, but the numbers surprised most expectations. Around 15,000 people had been in Kreuzberg for Myfest, and at 6pm, around 7000 marched in the demonstration. Among the 7000 was a so-called black block- one of the largest seen in years. Soon enough, beer bottles and stones were flung at the waiting police officers. As the evening progressed, trash cans were set on fire, and some cars were attempted as well. The police countered with tear gas, pepper spray, rubber bullets, and other "crowd dispersal techniques." As with the Köpenick demo, the Morgenpost has another very nice photo series, here. It is almost difficult to believe that this is yearly occurrence, but based on the police presence alone- not even taking into account the tales of my friends, I know this to be true.

Winter Sucks, Thank God it's Spring

Seriously, winter sucks, so I am quite glad that it is over and spring is here. Today was a beautiful spring day- and when the sun comes out- as previously observed- so do the Germans. Indeed, all of Berlin has been out and about lapping up the sun. Get that Vitamin D, people!

My room gets marvelous morning sun, and I spent the morning reading in my ersatz window seat- the door tilted open to let the sweet air in, as I read Kleist. When the shadows began to overpower the sun in my room, Lydia came over and we headed off to Treptower Park. Indeed, that is why winter sucks- you cannot get an ice cream and lay on the grass in the sun when there is ice and snow everywhere.

A Walk in my Kiez- Sunday

Spring in Berlin, oh what joy!

When the sun comes out, so do the Germans. In fact everyone comes out to play in Berlin the moment the temperature rises and the sun begins to shine. After what seemed like an eternal winter, I am happy to say that Spring is fully here in Berlin! The birds are chirping, the sun is rising earlier and going down later every day- I cannot imagine the magic of the summer to come! Just think how long the sun will be out! I want to spend every possible moment in the sun, basking in the warm rays dancing across my skin. In the S-Bahn cars, the top side windows have even been open to let in the cool spring air! After a window of keenly observing the instructions by the automatic doors- to close them on cold days- it is nice to experience the windows left open. There is no longer a fear of the cold. I am even altering my travel methods. I've come to prefer buses and trams. They are usually a bit slower, but they stay in the sun and let me see the sun-soaked city. Why go underground where the sun can't follow?

Today was Easter Monday, the last day of my seemingly forever semester break. I went with a few friends to Treptower Park to soak up some rays. It being Easter Monday and a national holiday and all, we weren't the only ones with such a plan- the park was full of people with the day off work and school, lounging in the sun. It was a most perfect day- the sun, friends, and relaxation. Although the break is over and tomorrow I'll head back to classes, I am happy that this semester will be in the warm light of spring and summer- not the weak one of winter. Oh spring, I like you. The sandals have come out, the legs have emerged from their stockings, and I am ready to get some color- just not too much, I am from California- we know about skin cancer there.

New Hair

It is a glorious spring day: birds are chirping, the sun is warm, and I feel very blessed. Before I run out to read and catch some sun- here's a picture of the new hair, as promised. Beyond the Myspace quality of the photo, nice, no?

Back to Berlin, Adventures with Cordelia

After returning from England, I had a few days until my next visitor came- so I did what we all do when returning from vacation, I ran errands. I also said goodbye to my dear friend and travel companion Marie. She headed back to California and I am down one friend, I need to make more friends! I miss her dearly.

Adventures with Cordelia were nothing but awesome, despite a few missteps, by no means on our part. The first was with a planned trip to Wolfsburg- the Volkswagon town, about 3 and 1/2 hours by the slow and cheap train with one transfer in the apparent hub of German train travel- Magdeburg. Cordelia is quite the soccer fan, and the plan was to go to a professional Bundesliga game- Wolfsburg against Schalke. We bought the tickets quite some time ago, and were very excited. However, as we slowly made our way to Wolfsburg, clouds of doom began to make their way toward us. On the train to Magdeburg, Cordelia caught the results to a game which looked remarkably like the one we were going to. Now, there are a million excuses one can make for this occurrence- and we made them all, continuing onto Wolsburg, a decidedly icky feeling developing in the pits of our stomachs. After passing the tiny and oddly named Bösdorf- literally evil village, we were almost to Wolsburg. We passed the stadium- it was fairly empty. But we were there over two hours before the game and Germany on Sundays is always empty. Best place to film any film of the world after the Apocalypse? Small towns and old industrial cities in Germany on Sundays. We passed some choice locations on the way to Wolfburg. We weren't up for admitting our possible failure to anyone, so Cordelia and I choose not to ask for help,but rather continued on our way to the stadium. At the stadium, we found ominous signs of the game having already occurred- an old press pass in the trash bin and trash around the entrance gates. A phone call to Marie fixed it for us- Wolfsburg is doing well this year, and the game was moved to that previous Friday night. I was incensed, I hadn't been informed of this change! And Cordelia was frustrated- but all in all, we had a nice day. We saw countryside and rode the train. Although the goal was a miss- the journey was splendid. In Wolfburg we even saw this terrifying advertisement for a stroller. One for multiple children, as you will no doubt notice- it seems they made good use of photoshop. Oh my, someone save that child!

So what did Cordelia and I do in Berlin? We went to the German History Museum three days in a row (school groups and tourists are everywhere!), for which I have purchased a year pass. That's right, until March of next year, whenever I'd like to go the German History Museum, it is free for me and a guest. We also went to a variety of Soviet era monuments. Monumental architecture is no stranger to Berlin, but these took it to whole new heights. It was an amazing week in Berlin, the sun shone almost everyday, and one day I even wore sandals- it may have been a bit premature, but my toes were happy. And fittingly, when Cordelia left, it rained. It rained, hailed, and even snowed a bit all day yesterday. Berlin would seem to be sad that Cordelia has left. Today has been glorious, sunny, and a bit warmer. I would have been out and about to enjoy it- except for the fact that I had two wisdom teeth pulled this morning, but I'd expect more about that later.

Some Berlin Spring

This, I trust, is only the beginnings. Over the last few weeks, it has begun to look a little like Spring. The skies have been blue, the sun has been shinning, and we are getting into the 50s some days! It isn't quite sandal weather, but I'll take what I can get. Not really any leaves on the trees yet- but come on, we have crocuses, how much longer can those buds take?

England, oh an English speaking country...how novel!

This is a long time coming, but I have had the good fortune of playing hostess once more since dear Charlotte came to visit. But here we go- England! A few weeks ago, I made my first venture into an English speaking country since August. It was marvelous, strange, charming, and oddly familiar. Beyond people speaking English, the signs were in English and my minor fear of linguistic failure was significantly less- if nonexistent. But let us start with the beginning, and the beginning is Berlin.

My friend Charlotte first came to Berlin, we saw the sights, took in the graffiti, and made a day trek to San Souci, in general having an awesome time in Berlin. We went to the Mauerpark flea market, saw if we could be a Jewish Peddler circa 1860 at the Jewish museum, and naturally ate delicious Döner Kebab. Then, we were off to London. The day began amusingly enough. We were on a Ryan Air flight, now those of you who have not had the pleasure of flying with Ryan Air will not expect this tale, but perhaps knowing that Ryan Air is a budget airliner will acclimatize you. Problems started at the gate, we were inexplicably given boarding passes stamped as though we were going to Frankfurt. This wasn't caught until we were boarding the plane, requiring flight attendants to ask each passenger if they were indeed traveling to London. They took our incorrect boarding passes from us, and everyone sat down, buckled up, and got ready to head to London. Then the flight crew realized that we need our boarding passes, so our names were called one by one and the passes were redistributed. During the redistribution, the captain came on and let us know that he'd be turning the power off for a while. About ten minutes after the boarding passes have been properly redistributed, the captain comes back on and announces that there is a problem with the plane, and that they've called an engineer- from Dublin- who should be here in three hours to fix it. In the meantime, we're going to deplane. General moaning ensues and everyone begins to fetch their carryons from the overhead bins. Then about three to five minutes later a flight attendant comes on and announces that we aren't yet deplaning and that we should stay on our seats. At this point, Charlotte and I are creating alternate plans, glad that I live in Berlin and if needed we can stay a bit longer, should the engineer from Dublin not be able to fix the plane. Then, about 15 minutes later, the captain comes back on, tells us they've done a little "trouble shooting" and we should be able to take off in about 20 minutes. Charlotte and I have a nice long laugh- pack our doubts about "trouble shooting" and airtravel away, and finally head off to London. A serious comedy of errors.

London with Charlotte was amazing. I was able to see her old haunts, wander through parks beginning to show signs of spring, and take in London. We saw La Cage aux Folles with Graham Norton, looked upon London from the top of St. Paul's, and ate delicious Indian food on Brick Lane. In keeping with the graffiti tour of Berlin, we also caught some Banksy in London, as well as a very exciting form of graffiti, knitting graffiti. As some of you may know, knitting is becoming quite hip- so in keeping with this hipness, knitting graffiti has been born. Because what statue doesn't need a hat or arm warmers? I think I should consider bringing knitting graffiti- let's say knitfitti to Berkeley, or Berlin at the very least. Semester break project, yeah! Of all the things in London, I think I enjoyed the oncoming Spring the most- I am oh so ready for Spring! In London, color plants had been planted, crocuses were blooming, and later in my travels I even found daffodils. Germany is just at the crocus stage- but I have hope for the spring to come! Easter is my latest date. April 12th is totally possible!

It was an amazing three days in London with Charlotte- but it had to come to an end, with Charlotte heading back home. I, however, did not head home. Rather I journeyed South, to New Milton, my friend Lydia, and her family. The train ride to Winchester (England's first capitol where I broke my journey, also where Jane Austen died) was uneventful and took me through beautiful countryside. Winchester was even warmer than London had been, and I wore just a cashmere cardigan, shedding my jacket. I felt the sun and spring on their way! Lydia and I then continued to her home where preparations for a family birthday party were underway. I was able to meet the whole family and even more- feel like I was once more part of a family. Everyone was so open and welcoming- it was marvelous. I miss being a part of a family and it was nice to get slightly into that swing once more. New Milton is on the South Coast of England, and Lydia's house is about a mile from the sea. We walked to the sea, fought the wind, and basked in the warmth of the sun- wishing for summer, but taking the beginnings of spring. We were also able to go to the Isle of Wight. Where you know, Tennyson lived. We reached the Isle by ferry and spent the better part of the day wandering through Yarmouth, Freshwater, and other even smaller hamlets on the Island. Much of our wandering was over open country- where I saw such sights as this amazingly picturesque little gate and some ducks in a very low and muddy pond. We walked for hours and when we returned home that night to a movie and curry with Lydia's mom, it was very much appreciated and enjoyed! A few lazy days were also had, lounging about, sleeping in, and eating leftovers- the true enjoyments of being on break and going home. I had such a nice time, when it came to go back to London and then back to Berlin, I did not want to leave. I wanted to watch the spring come and laze a bit more with such warm and loving people. Alas, it did end- I had to bid adieu and head back to Berlin. I was asked, multiple times, "Jenna, could you see yourself living in the U.K.?" and I have to say, yes. It was charming and familiar- but just a bit different. And the fact that I could communicate successfully is also a major benefit. I didn't want to leave, but it was all for the best, because then Cordelia came.

Berlin, oh when will you be Spring?

I am ready for Spring, Berlin is ready for Spring- really the world is ready for Spring (excluding that whole Southern Hemisphere-but I live in Germany I am allowed to be Northern-Hemisphere centric when talking of the weather). So weather gods, if I am ready for Spring, and everyone else is ready for spring, why aren't you complying? In my room, I've a few attempts to herald Spring, last week I made a Spring collage and my roommate gave me a beautiful new flower for my room for Valentine's Day. I've named her Roxanne. It suits, doesn't it?

Ugh, lying in my bed today, attempting to write an art history essay, I wish the outside was more tempting. I want to go for a walk, not wear tights, and maybe even sit on the ground without fear of catching some deadly winter cold (I'm still getting over yet another one).

But with all the doom and gloom of a Spring not yet here- today is Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. For those of you unaccustomed with my Catholicism, I love Lent. It is perhaps my favorite time of year. How could it not be? It ushers in the Spring and leads to my favorite holiday-Easter. Lent is a marvelous time, one meant for reflection, sacrifice, and in which you can challenge yourself. That is how I opt to see Lent- as a challenge. I traditionally give something up, as well as embark upon a Lenten project. I always give Chocolate up, and this year I've decided to give up all sweets and coffee as well. Last year I gave up eating out for Lent, with marvelous results and much money going into the rice bowl. I hope this year may be as successful. I've decided on two Lenten projects- the first is of a secular nature, I am going to read Eneas Roman. It is a middle High German novel (12th c.) based on the story of Aeneas. There's a seminar I'd like to take next semester, and you have to have read it. The second is to make my way through the Psalms. I've read them before- but my mastery of them and power of recall is seriously limited. I'm going to give it another go- is there a better time for such a task then Lent? If I come to any amazing conclusions-you might just see them here.

Ash Wednesday is here, I'll go get ashes in German at my local church tonight, and Spring cannot be too much further behind- but what are you giving up for Lent?