Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Paris, Oo-La-La!
Paris, it seems everyone falls in love with you, the city of lights. They go looking for La Vie En Rose or perhaps a bit of glamour and style they feel there world has left behind and you have magically retained. And while you were, Paris, beautiful and exciting and I had a great time exploring you and your environs, I don't feel we fell in love.
Our first day in Paris was gorgeous, after a few days of snow and grey, in fact more snow than we had had in Berlin the whole of the winter, the sun upon arrival was amazing. Our cautiously packed sunglasses were taken out, donned, and at least on our first day, put to amazing use. We got lost an awful lot, wandered around, and enjoyed the switching third language. It was curious- in the airport and train/metro stations they tended to go for French, English, and German on the signs. However, when any announcements were made multilingually, they were inevitably in French, English, and Spanish. Are the french afraid to attempt German? Is the Spanish similar enough in written appearance to escape necessity of print, but not near enough in auditory quality (where do all those letters go??) to escape signage? Whatever the reason, I must say, it is nice to be a native speaker of the imperial language. Did you know that there are more second language speakers of English than native speakers? Wiki it, oh wait- I did it for you!
Taking advantage of the sun and my trusty guide books (one in English, one in German, have I mentioned that the best thing I've done in Berlin is get my 5€ library card? I love the VÖBB!), Marie and I set off for possibly the coolest cemetery I've ever seen. Not that I've been to many cemeteries, my love for Victoriana only fuels the morbid impulse so much- excluding perhaps the Ancient Egyptians, has there been any other society more obsessed with death? Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is basically the place to be buried in Paris, and charmingly enough while scouting out the final resting places of Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, and Edith Piaf, we were able to pass a contemporary funeral. Good to know the place isn't just a necropolis for the long dead, but that current stars have a chance too! After the considerable walk there and back, not to mention around and about the cemetery- Marie and I trudged back home and enjoyed a marvelous sleep.
The next day meant Versailles. You could say that Versailles is a very different type of necropolis. It used to be a city teeming with intrigue, high fashion, and scratching instead of knocking on doors, it has now been replaced with tourists streaming through and snazzy red ropes to protect the furnishings. That said, I wish it had been spring or summer! The grounds were glorious, and I couldn't help but imagine there magnified glory in the summer months.
We toured the "domain of Marie Antoinette" as well, what it would have been to be oblivious and have absolute power! I want my own little hamlet! But then I think about my social consciousness, and I know it won't work. Bummer, man. I guess I can always dream, or just visit castles and hope...hope a prince'll ride by and whisk me into another century. Good thing I'm in Europe, that kind of thing totally doesn't happen in America.
After a day with the old world charm and opulence, we did a 180 and hit the icon of Paris- the Eiffel Tower- bei Nacht.
It was fairly spectacular. Alight in the night, it started to glow and dazzle every hour- both of which we were in the tour for and unable to appreciate.
A trip to Paris would be incomplete without a visit to the Louvre, or so I've been told. And until I go back to Paris, I guess I won't know, because I went. Marie and I spent the entire day walking around the Louvre- and you know- it is kind of a big place. We didn't see anywhere near to everything, but did see the big stars and were able to gather some personal favorites beyond the big guns. A few of my favorites that I managed to catch all seem to share a common theme, what can I say? I like the middle ages. Maybe that's why I love Gothic cathedrals above all and spend gobs of time studying Middle High German. The Louvre had a few nice Medieval pieces, but by no means their focus.
The Arc de Triomphe was also seen, as was Montmarte and the Moulin Rouge, but the highlight may have been attending Mass at Notre Dame. As some may know- I kinda like churches, especially Gothic ones. And I'd never actually been to Mass in a Cathedral before, so that was special. And in French! Or mostly. It was an international Mass- so the singing was mainly in Latin, the First Reading was given in English, the Second in Spanish, and the Gospel back in French. There was a great deal of incense and a magic feeling. I am sure some would deride this emotional reaction, but when the it came time to pass the Peace- one of my favorite moments in Mass- and I was greeted with "Peace Be With You," "Frieden Sei Mit Dir," "Pace," "Paix Être Avec Vous," among others, it was amazing. One of those moments of incandescent happiness that made the trip for me in more ways than one. And with Ash Wednesday tomorrow and the beginning of Lent near here, what better emotion and memory could I have better at hand?
So although Paris and I did not fall in love, and I was oh so happy to be home, here in Berlin, in Friedrichshain, my little eastern corner of grunge and urbanization, and even happier to hear my Kiez's namesake, Samarierkirche ringing this morning on my icy errand run, I am glad I went and caught a little bit of Paris to take home with me.
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