I Voted, How 'bout YOU?

That's right, through the wonders of absentee voting, I have already cast my ballot in this November's election. As this is my first presidential election, I was quite excited to cast my vote. It was, however, a bit anticlimactic casting over a month in advance and missing out on the exciting sticker, but I have done my civic duty.

I was watching last night's debate today, and two things struck me:

1) The debate was really boring. Beyond John McCain's often funny pronunciation of words (Taliban was the best) and Jim Lehr's continued attempts to have the candidates acknowledge the fact that they were in the same room and actually debating one another in real time, it was pretty tame. In case you missed it, or just want to relive the excitement, I would recommend watching the debate on the NYTimes website. They run a transcript of the text parallel to the video and have a check point, where any sketchy statements are fact checked. It is interesting to note that nearly all of the sketchy statements are McCain's.

2) Through absentee voting, I voted before the first debate occurred. Good thing I follow politics, I guess.

Following politics here has been interesting. I can catch NPR World Service on the Polish radio in my kitchen, and I read a collection of US newspapers online everyday (NYTimes and Slate everyday; The San Francisco Chronicle occasionally), as well as the German Süddeutsche Zeitung. This combination keeps me fairly up on any important happenings.


Despite my wide range of news sources, there is a pleasing distance which I have from the campaigns. Presidential less so, there is an intensive fascination with American Politics here, they are reported on more than German or European politics, the conventions received amazing coverage. The distance of which I am speaking, was especially felt when voting on California's myriad propositions. I had only heard of a few of them and had no attack ads running through my head! One of the main reasons I stay registered in Fresno County, is to vote against my Congressman, George Radonovich. I was rather disappointed to see he is running unopposed. Hopefully someday!

Sprachkurs

As I was posting my last entry, I realized I had yet to mention the "Sprachkurs" (Language course) I have been taking the last two weeks. Oh, where to begin? It is a class 5 hours a day, 5 days a week. We review German grammar and are there to better our German. My class is primarily comprised of Europeans. There are three French students, and then one from each of the following countries: Hungary, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, Denmark, and Switzerland (French speaking). I am joined by two other Americans, one who just finished up at Redlands and surprisingly, a guy from Berkeley. I even took a poetry class with him last semester- talk about a strange stroke of fate. The class is held in Mitte, which is kind of like the Financial District in San Francisco, not so great to grab a bite to eat.

The instructor is a young woman in her late 20's. She has two kids and is a "Waschechte Berliner," a phrase similar in meaning to true blue Berliner. A typical day includes Grammar, Grammar, and more Grammar. I am occasionally a fan of Grammar. In particular, I am fond of crazy grammar forms- like extended adjective modifying phrases in German, and "psychoadverbial phrases" in Yiddish. But reviewing Konjontive II, Passiv, and Prepositions is not exactly my idea of fun. I don't take German because I am in love with Grammar. But Grammar review never hurts, right? WRONG!

I would like to say wrong, but I am actually not sure- so on it goes for two more weeks.


If I had a goal for this course, it would be to begin using adjective endings. I use them, I just don't pay attention to them, who does? Well some people do, I suppose. I'm just not disciplined enough. Give me another couple of years maybe. And if I had another goal, it would be to slow down. I used to speak really quickly in English, it seems I've taken on that trait in German now. Bummer.

Indian Food, Turkish Food, and Poland

As appealing as sausage and more sausage is- the best food Berlin has to offer is usually of the "ethnic" variety. Indian and Turkish food in particular are delicious. My neighborhood (my "Kietz") has fine establishments of both varieties. As per my usual, I am making friends with the owners of these restaurants and reaping the benefits!


My friend at the Turkish place brings me tea when I arrive and knows what I order, although I occasionally mix it up and change my order. I do not know his name, that would ruin the mystery. I think in another month or two we may be able to "Dutzen" and greet each other informally. I am not sure, however, who should initiate the informality. He is older, but I am the customer. It is unclear, I will let nature decide. My friend at the Indian restaurant admires my penchant for spicy food. He makes my food as spicy as possible and smiles admiringly when I finish it all without water after every bite (I usually opt for a mango lassi or glass of wine). An interesting custom in Indian restaurants here, after your meal, when they bring the bill, they give you a shot of homemade mango alcohol, you are expected to drink it. My friend busts out the special stuff for me, to applaud my love of spice.

Much of my relationships with these restaurant owners is based on my regular patronage. It is not, however, that alone. We commiserate over the sudden cold and the relative difficulty in finding spicy food in Germany. It is a solid bond.

For all of you fashion mavens out there- here comes Poland! I am on the hunt for a winter jacket, but have been unsuccessful in finding one I like well enough to buy here. I was asking my roommate for suggestions, and she suggested Poland. It seems Germany has no fashion and if one wishes to be stylishly attired- get thee hence to Poland!

Fall IS Here

It is officially Autumn. Or so I think. This weekend, the temperature dropped about 15 degrees and the sun began to seriously win its game of hide and seek with the clouds gathered over Berlin. Bummer man. Last week was glorious and sunny- but as I scan the forecast for next week, I see that the sun is not coming out to play anytime soon.

To augment the cooler weather, I went to buy some more tights. It was there that I decided, Germany is the country for me. I went to a large department store and found thousands of tights- in hundreds of styles and colors- enough to keep my legs warm during the coming cold and keep me in style! Up to the next floor- hats and scarves galore. The item which sealed the deal, however, were the gloves. Of all colors, materials, and lengths. I was tempted to buy at least three pair right then and there. I did, however, restrain myself. I'd like any gloves to coordinate with the yet-to-be purchased winter coat. In keeping with the cooler mood, I did manage to find, on my neighborhood ramblings, a produce stand with rather delicious clementines. I am not sure what their providence is, but they are delicious none the less.


The weather does not seem to be curtailing the normal German activities, except sadly the tables and benches are beginning to leave side walk cafes. I spent Saturday morning at Treptower park and then moved to my favorite cafe in Kreuzberg when the weather grew too cold. There were a few brave souls outdoors, but inside was far fuller than I had seen it before. And to think, it is only September! Good thing my local coffee place has coffee for 1€.

I went to the evening mass at my local church tonight, it was not heated. I doubt it will be heated as the weather grows colder- but I guess I'll have to wait to see.

White After Labor Day

So I know this rule is fading, and surely has been for a while in California. But, anytime between Labor Day and Easter I cannot help but think twice before putting on white shoes, pants, dresses, or even skirts. Labor Day rolled our way a bit ago- this caused me to begin contemplating the existence of such a "rule" in German culture. My first stop was Melanie, the ever useful roommate.

To make a long conversation short, she had never heard of such a thing. She also thought it was kind of crazy. Later that week, we were walking through Berlin and I saw some Cowboy boots in a shop window. I told her about my Pink Ropers as a girl, how I wore them with everything (especially dresses and skirts as I was never fond of pants) and hardly ever wore socks. This caused me to recall the Stride Rite incident. For the uninformed out there, the Stride Rite incident refers to a shoe shopping incident with my grandmother during the Pink Ropers period.

It was approaching Easter and my grandma was taking me to buy a new pair of white shoes for Easter. As a small child, a measurement of my feet was required. The friendly shoe salesman took my amazingly pink boots off, and with my foot, out came sand, dirt, and other bits of things that do not belong in shoes. And naturally, I wasn't wearing socks. My grandmother was so embarrassed! She did, however, buy me the shoes and a nice pair of white socks with lace around the edges. I still remember them. As much as I remember the story, it is the combination of my hazy patch of memories and my grandmother's almost yearly retelling on my birthday.

Melanie thinks that new Easter dresses and white shoes is an adorable tradition. I can't help but think it colors my impression of childhood. But it seems I can wear white year round without fear of censure here. Good to know.

As an added note- Melanie's birthday is Easter this year. I am so jealous.

2051, here I come!

Mexican Food in Berlin

A friend mentioned tortilla chips and salsa to me yesterday. This set off a major Mexican food craving. So I set out to see what Berlin had to offer. I had been mildly wary. I mean, I wouldn't eat Mexican food in Massachusetts, but I was going to eat it in Berlin?? But hey, I'm going to be here for a year, I thought I might as well see what Berlin has to offer.

I had passed multiple Mexican establishments in my general area (alright, two)- so I decided to try one. They had a nice lunch time special- some of their entrees were half off. Including enchiladas! This was looking alright. I thought, why not go for it? I even had a margarita with lunch, only 3€! Things were looking up.

I was eagerly anticipating my margarita. And it came. It was white. I have never seen a white margarita before. Did they forget the Rose's Lime Juice? I checked back to the menu, it seems their margaritas are made with white tequila, as opposed to our more common gold tequila. And as far as margarita mix goes, it seems some kind of "sour" additive was added, but it just wasn't the same. It was also very strong. And not green. Kind of disappointing.

But to the food! I ordered chicken enchiladas. They came with rice, a salad, and a bit of guacamole on a leaf of red cabbage. Interesting. The enchiladas were not drenched in sauce, kind of a disappointment, and seemed to have been baked- the cheese on them had that appearance. It wasn't that bad, the meat had been marinated. There were no beans. They were missed. The food didn't make me want to cry, unlike a chile relleno I once had in Coeur d'Alene (oh, how could they ever call THAT a chile relleno!!). There wasn't any salsa- but had I been motivated to spend an extra 3€, I could have procured some. My experience with salsa in Germany, and spicy food in general, has however not been inspiring. I bought some salsa at a grocery store, labeled hot- it was somewhere between mild and medium. I asked for spicy sauce on my Döner, it was no where near. I have found Sriracha- and it is amazing. However, I don't think I can carry Sriracha around with me everywhere.

Lunch was okay. Not inspiring. When I came home I did some research, and discovered a Latino grocery store. I plan to travel there this weekend and see if I can procure tortillas! Then maybe I can do some home Mexican cooking to satisfy. A funny side note- Germans pronounce the ll's in tortilla like l's, it seems they missed the part where ll's are y's in Spanish. Or maybe they got their cues from Napoleon Dynamite.

Back to Volkspark Friedrichshain

This early afternoon was quite nice- sunny and warm. So, I went to my favorite Berlin Park, Volkspark Friedrichshain. The contrast between Berlin's pasts is sometimes startling. On my first trip to the park, I was enraptured by the Märchenbrunnen- the beautiful fairy tale fountain of the early 20th century, a great work of the German Cultural Empire. This time, I took a slightly different route in getting there and was treated to one of many Soviet Style Monuments. Monuments to those who died in the war, those who died for Socialism, or the ever popular People's Hero- fighting with his simple weapons. The monument at Volkspark Friedrichshain is quite in keeping with this vein.



The cast iron is in start contrast to the decadent marble of the Märchenbrunnen. And while the Märchenbrunnen are imposing and grand- they are far more friendly than this lonely giant fighting an invisible enemy.

This monument, however, has nothing on the one at Treptower Park, another favorite spot of mine. Talk about imposing.



Berlin is a city full of contrasts, as I write this now, a summer thunderstorm rages outside my windows. And to think, it was so sunny just a short while ago!