Berlin, oh when will you be Spring?

I am ready for Spring, Berlin is ready for Spring- really the world is ready for Spring (excluding that whole Southern Hemisphere-but I live in Germany I am allowed to be Northern-Hemisphere centric when talking of the weather). So weather gods, if I am ready for Spring, and everyone else is ready for spring, why aren't you complying? In my room, I've a few attempts to herald Spring, last week I made a Spring collage and my roommate gave me a beautiful new flower for my room for Valentine's Day. I've named her Roxanne. It suits, doesn't it?

Ugh, lying in my bed today, attempting to write an art history essay, I wish the outside was more tempting. I want to go for a walk, not wear tights, and maybe even sit on the ground without fear of catching some deadly winter cold (I'm still getting over yet another one).

But with all the doom and gloom of a Spring not yet here- today is Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. For those of you unaccustomed with my Catholicism, I love Lent. It is perhaps my favorite time of year. How could it not be? It ushers in the Spring and leads to my favorite holiday-Easter. Lent is a marvelous time, one meant for reflection, sacrifice, and in which you can challenge yourself. That is how I opt to see Lent- as a challenge. I traditionally give something up, as well as embark upon a Lenten project. I always give Chocolate up, and this year I've decided to give up all sweets and coffee as well. Last year I gave up eating out for Lent, with marvelous results and much money going into the rice bowl. I hope this year may be as successful. I've decided on two Lenten projects- the first is of a secular nature, I am going to read Eneas Roman. It is a middle High German novel (12th c.) based on the story of Aeneas. There's a seminar I'd like to take next semester, and you have to have read it. The second is to make my way through the Psalms. I've read them before- but my mastery of them and power of recall is seriously limited. I'm going to give it another go- is there a better time for such a task then Lent? If I come to any amazing conclusions-you might just see them here.

Ash Wednesday is here, I'll go get ashes in German at my local church tonight, and Spring cannot be too much further behind- but what are you giving up for Lent?

Paris, Oo-La-La!

Paris, it seems everyone falls in love with you, the city of lights. They go looking for La Vie En Rose or perhaps a bit of glamour and style they feel there world has left behind and you have magically retained. And while you were, Paris, beautiful and exciting and I had a great time exploring you and your environs, I don't feel we fell in love.

Our first day in Paris was gorgeous, after a few days of snow and grey, in fact more snow than we had had in Berlin the whole of the winter, the sun upon arrival was amazing. Our cautiously packed sunglasses were taken out, donned, and at least on our first day, put to amazing use. We got lost an awful lot, wandered around, and enjoyed the switching third language. It was curious- in the airport and train/metro stations they tended to go for French, English, and German on the signs. However, when any announcements were made multilingually, they were inevitably in French, English, and Spanish. Are the french afraid to attempt German? Is the Spanish similar enough in written appearance to escape necessity of print, but not near enough in auditory quality (where do all those letters go??) to escape signage? Whatever the reason, I must say, it is nice to be a native speaker of the imperial language. Did you know that there are more second language speakers of English than native speakers? Wiki it, oh wait- I did it for you!


Taking advantage of the sun and my trusty guide books (one in English, one in German, have I mentioned that the best thing I've done in Berlin is get my 5€ library card? I love the VÖBB!), Marie and I set off for possibly the coolest cemetery I've ever seen. Not that I've been to many cemeteries, my love for Victoriana only fuels the morbid impulse so much- excluding perhaps the Ancient Egyptians, has there been any other society more obsessed with death? Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is basically the place to be buried in Paris, and charmingly enough while scouting out the final resting places of Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, and Edith Piaf, we were able to pass a contemporary funeral. Good to know the place isn't just a necropolis for the long dead, but that current stars have a chance too! After the considerable walk there and back, not to mention around and about the cemetery- Marie and I trudged back home and enjoyed a marvelous sleep.


The next day meant Versailles. You could say that Versailles is a very different type of necropolis. It used to be a city teeming with intrigue, high fashion, and scratching instead of knocking on doors, it has now been replaced with tourists streaming through and snazzy red ropes to protect the furnishings. That said, I wish it had been spring or summer! The grounds were glorious, and I couldn't help but imagine there magnified glory in the summer months.


We toured the "domain of Marie Antoinette" as well, what it would have been to be oblivious and have absolute power! I want my own little hamlet! But then I think about my social consciousness, and I know it won't work. Bummer, man. I guess I can always dream, or just visit castles and hope...hope a prince'll ride by and whisk me into another century. Good thing I'm in Europe, that kind of thing totally doesn't happen in America.

After a day with the old world charm and opulence, we did a 180 and hit the icon of Paris- the Eiffel Tower- bei Nacht.

It was fairly spectacular. Alight in the night, it started to glow and dazzle every hour- both of which we were in the tour for and unable to appreciate.

A trip to Paris would be incomplete without a visit to the Louvre, or so I've been told. And until I go back to Paris, I guess I won't know, because I went. Marie and I spent the entire day walking around the Louvre- and you know- it is kind of a big place. We didn't see anywhere near to everything, but did see the big stars and were able to gather some personal favorites beyond the big guns. A few of my favorites that I managed to catch all seem to share a common theme, what can I say? I like the middle ages. Maybe that's why I love Gothic cathedrals above all and spend gobs of time studying Middle High German. The Louvre had a few nice Medieval pieces, but by no means their focus.

The Arc de Triomphe was also seen, as was Montmarte and the Moulin Rouge, but the highlight may have been attending Mass at Notre Dame. As some may know- I kinda like churches, especially Gothic ones. And I'd never actually been to Mass in a Cathedral before, so that was special. And in French! Or mostly. It was an international Mass- so the singing was mainly in Latin, the First Reading was given in English, the Second in Spanish, and the Gospel back in French. There was a great deal of incense and a magic feeling. I am sure some would deride this emotional reaction, but when the it came time to pass the Peace- one of my favorite moments in Mass- and I was greeted with "Peace Be With You," "Frieden Sei Mit Dir," "Pace," "Paix Être Avec Vous," among others, it was amazing. One of those moments of incandescent happiness that made the trip for me in more ways than one. And with Ash Wednesday tomorrow and the beginning of Lent near here, what better emotion and memory could I have better at hand?


So although Paris and I did not fall in love, and I was oh so happy to be home, here in Berlin, in Friedrichshain, my little eastern corner of grunge and urbanization, and even happier to hear my Kiez's namesake, Samarierkirche ringing this morning on my icy errand run, I am glad I went and caught a little bit of Paris to take home with me.

Valentine's Day and Lübeck

If it hasn't been made clear yet, I love Valentine's Day. This year was a rather memorable one. Lydia and Marie came over, we baked a cake- delicious Black forest Chocolate Cake. And a lentil roast, and sweet potato wedges. Yum, it was all so good! The evening then took itself to an Irish pub in Kreuzberg to watch a match of the Six Nations Cup- England vs. Wales. It was very odd- I didn't feel like I was in Berlin anymore. There were a wide range of English accents to be had: Welsh, English, Scottish, Irish, and Marie and I- the token Americans. The atmosphere was great, full and very into the game, and they were all quite friendly, full of much banter.


Then we came back, ate cake and watched Shakespeare in Love, a marvelous movie which is always enjoyed. A sleepover then commenced and this morning we woke up early-ish to head off to Lübeck, an odd Hanseatic city in Northern Germany. Not only is the Alt-Stadt cool and surrounded by an essential moat- it also adorably cute and quite different than what we get in Berlin.

It was was snowing a rather wet snow the entire time we were there- but we are all reasonably healthy and dressed warm! As with all the places I've visited so far in Germany, I just cannot help but wonder what they are like in the Spring or Summer! Imagine the sun! The green! I am ready for Spring. Oh so ready. Well, Lent is soon, and Easter is then on the horizon. Not too long to wait.


Did I mention that Lübeck is the home and perhaps originator of Marzipan? Indeed, at the "Marzipan Salon" I felt like I was visiting something akin to the world's largest ball of twine- just a bit cooler. Because yes, the figures below are made of Marzipan! Oy!


All in all, it was sweet. I'd recommend Lübeck- it is exciting an not just for the marzipan. Did I mention than Thomas Mann lived there and the Buddenbrookshaus is there? Günter Grass currently makes his home there (does it remind him of Danzig??)- so if you want to stalk him, that could be the place to go. Not that I'm suggesting that or anything.

Happy Valentine's Day!

One of my favorite days all year- enjoy!

Leipzig, the Detroit of Germany?

This weekend, the Germany fun continued with a trip to Leipzig. At about 2 hours-ish on the slow train, it more than fit the criteria for a day trip. Leipzig is the city of Bach, the church I am pictured with above, Thomaskirche, is Bach's church. Leipzig is also know for the first lasting signs of descent in former East Germany. The strange East German legacy was still very much present in Leipzig, from strangely monstrous monuments to empty buildings looking eerily Soviet, it was like a time warp. That and the empty streets on a typical German Sunday, made us ask ourselves, is Leipzig the Detroit of Germany? Depressing and grey with signs of former glory?


If we were to equate Bach and Leipzig's other favored son- Felix Mendelsohn Bartholdy (turning 200 this year, congrats!) to an American equivalent, wouldn't it be Motown? Clearly, Leipzig is the Detroit of Germany.


That said, we had a great time- saw beautiful things, enjoyed the above freezing temperatures, and saw a great sunset from the Soviet monument. Naturally I saw a wonderfully green field and blue sky, dotted with windmills on the way. What is it about the train and sun? I swear, it is always where ever I am not going. But I'll take my Vitamin D where I can get it.


Does it get better than that? I guess I'll wait and see. On the horizon, my second favorite holiday and Lübeck.

Dresden: Cold, But Pretty

This weekend, I went to Dresden with my friends Marie and Lydia. Marie is heading back to California in another month and a half, so we're trying to get some more of Germany into that time! It has been decided that if we can get there via train in under four hours, it is totally doable as a day trip. At about three and half hours on the regional (and hence super-cheap) trains, Dresden fit the bill quite well. Despite some movie like drama in the beginning (the train pulls slowly away as your friend bangs on the door and you wave from the window)- the trip up was great. We had a bit of sun even; I was able to put on my optimistically included sunglasses and catch up on some vitamin D without risk of overdose!


Dresden was pretty, but cold. As we entered the train station at the end of our day (around 8ish), the outdoor temperature was -8, in Fahrenheit that is about 17. Burr, that's cold! The Frauenkirche was amazing, the outside is light and pretty (pictured above) but the inside is a riot of pastels and gold Baroque glory- not what any of us expected. The city showed signs of amazing gardens and an infrastructure perhaps best experienced in warmer weather. I think I'll be back when the sun comes to play more often.


Next weekend it looks like Leipzig and then the weekend after- Lübeck- it's good to see the world beyond Berlin. Did I mention we passed glorious snow covered fields on the way to Dresden? I do love farmland...